Photos of goats and the FAVL turtle, whose name is Rawiya

Three more photos from "opening" dinner at Paradisio

Photos from pre-program.... classes start tomorrow

Last posting before travel to Burkina...

I leave Wed. morning. Will look forward to seeing all students in Ouagadougou next week. When you land in Ouagadougou airport, look for someone with a sign with your name on it. You can make calls at kiosks just out the door of the baggage claim area- call Elisee at 78 01 17 52 or me at 76 40 89 23. It is often that case that a bag might be missing. Never fear! They often come on the next flight. But be sure to have the airline representative fill out a form, and leave them with the numbers above to contact. Be sure to get their contact info- cell phone!

National politics in Burkina Faso

More on local politics in Burkina Faso- from an interview with Etienne Traoré, Prof at Univeristy of Ouagadougou...

Les propositions de Salif Diallo synthétisent les arguments de l’opposition sur le sujet. Il y a juste ajouté son grain de sel. Pour convaincre le peuple de la véracité de ce qu’il dit, il aurait fallu que Salif Diallo fasse son autocritique. C’est lui qui a assis les bases de ce régime dans sa composante civile. Il a contribué obstinément à détruire toute forme d’opposition. C’est aussi lui, le spécialiste qui provoquait les scissions au sein des partis de l’opposition. C’est lui qui a assis les bases de ce régime, si aujourd’hui il reconnait qu’il y a un échec, il devrait aussi accepter de faire sa propre autocritique. D’autre part, vu que ses propositions n’ont pas rencontré l’assentiment de ses camarades de parti, il aurait dû démissionner du parti et créer son propre parti. Il ne l’a pas fait. Il n’est donc pas allé au bout de son raisonnement. Enfin, Blaise Compaoré est le principal responsable de tout ce que Salif Diallo dénonce. C’est lui le chef de ce système, le véritable responsable du parti. Dans sa logique, Salif Diallo aurait dû demander sa démission. Là encore, il ne l’a pas fait. Cela étant, de façon globale, on ne peut pas donner une réponse à l’échec de ce régime en appelant à une cinquième république. Il aurait fallu appeler les acteurs de la classe politique, ceux du Congrès pour la démocratie et le progrès (CDP) à changer leurs mœurs politiques.

Que pensez-vous qu’on puisse changer en passant à une autre république? Ce sont les mêmes acteurs qui vont animer cette nouvelle république, avec leurs mêmes mœurs politiques qui n’auraient pas changés. Les textes actuels sont bons, c’est l’application et les hommes qui posent problème. Je ne vois pas la nécessité de changer de régime. On change de régime lorsqu’il y a une crise des institutions, or, il n’y a pas de crise d’institutions au Burkina Faso. Aujourd’hui, les pouvoirs législatif, exécutif, judiciaire et les institutions sont monopolisées par le régime en place. Avec la Constitution consensuelle de 1991, les propositions du Collège de sages suite à l’assassinat de Norbert Zongo et les différentes revendications de l’opposition, le jeu politique devait être clair au Burkina Faso. Là où je suis d’accord avec Salif Diallo, c’est le constat d’échec. La seule alternative pour un débat démocratique franc dans notre pays, est que l’opposition utilise les échecs du régime pour en faire des succès politiques. Il faut que l’opposition s’organise. Tous les acquis démocratiques dans notre pays l’ont été à la faveur de mouvements populaires.

Read the article here...

Dogon tour

Our tour operator for Dogon Country has the following...

Here is the itinerary I suggest for you:

Day1 (23-11-09) Ouaga-Dogon country.
Depart from Ouaga early in the morning after breakfast, drive trough
Ouhigouya,Koro,Bankass, and arrive to Kani Kanikomolè for lunch,
arrange the luggage and visit Kanikolè, in the afernoon trek to Tely 3
km visit Tely on the escarpement, the most picturesque dogon villags -
a lot to see and experience about dogon culture, tradition, and
architectural, met with the local chef then overnight after dinner on
the rooftop under stars.

Day2 (24-11-09) Teli-And-Yabatalou-Begnemato.10 km
Depart from Tely early after breakfast, a stop in Andé to experience
the indigo dyeing, the wood sculptures, and the mud-cloth making
cooperative, and visit the old town. Then walk to Yabatalou for lunch,
sieste in the afternoon trek up to Begnemato for overnight- this is
one of the prettiest cliff villages visit, dinner and have a cultural
exchange for volunteers, then overnight on the rooftop.

Day3 (25-11-09) Begnemato-Dourou-Nombori.14 km
Depart early in the morning after breakfast, trek on the cliffs to
Dourou, visit the guina where the oldest member of the community
leave, the Togouna where the local decisions are discussed, get lunch
at Dourou siesta, in the afternoon trek down the cliff with the
beautiful panorama on the plains, get to Nombori and visit the Tellem
tombs and learn about the mythology and special culture of the dogon
animist traditions. Then overnight on the rooftop.

Day4 (26-11-09 Nombori-Komokani-Terely 9km
Depart from Nombori early in the morning, walk to Komokani stop for
visit, then continue to Terely for lunch siesta, in the afternoon Mali
Experience Tours will provide a mask dancing ceremony which will be
very special in your memories, then go to the school yard and
volunteers are welcome to plant trees which will be provided by Mali
Experience Tours. Eat dinner and overnight on the rooftop.

Day5 (27-11-09) Terely-Amani-Irely-Neni.14km
Depart from Terely early in the morning walk to Amani, with a stop and
visit at the sacred crocodile pool, then continue to Irely and visit
Irely a rupestre painting on the wall, all about tradition and
history. Lunch and siesta; in the afternoon walk to Neni for overnight
on the rooftop.

Day6 (28-11-09) Neni-Banani-Sangha-Bandiagara.50km
Depart from Neni early in the morning trek to Banani,visite, and trek
up to Sangha, visit the Hogon the animist religious leader and the
oldest member who is related with the community fetish. Eat lunch,
then drive with minibus to Bandiagra check in at the Hotel Lafalaise,
room with A/C or fan availble, siesta, in the afternoon drive to
Songho to visit the grotto which is one of the hightlights in dogon
country, where the rock paitings are displayed, in the places where
they have circumcision ceremony every 3 years for the young boys
initiation then drive back to Bandiagara for overnight.

Day7 (29-11-09) Bandiagara-Ouaga.
Depart from Bandiagara early in the morning, drive to Ougadougou and
get there around 3 or 4 pm.

So please tell us your suggestion about this iteneraries or if you
have a special village where you want to see for any reason then we
will be able to design the program to suit your wishes, then we can
send you the complete program and price.
If you want some references please see the letter below from one of
our clients who did their tour with us. You can also contact another
American tourist who also sponsors children for my dogon education
project, her email is sylvia_h@comcast.net and another tourist who
recently took their tour with Mali Experience Tours, his email is
yonifriedman@gmail

Many thanks,
Mikael Djiguiba
Mali Experience Tours

masks dancing in Bobo-Dioulasso

A meal at Chez Zion in Bobo-Dioulasso... you will probably stay there in October!

Hermann Yameogo discusses political situation in Burkina

Yameogo is son of first president, and a ferocious opponent (though with slim popular support, apparently) of President Blaise Compaore. He responds directly to this latter issue of why he seems to not have much support...

INTERVIEW - Hermann YAMEOGO - Burkina Faso
Uploaded by AFRICA24. - Watch the latest news videos.

Nice introductory video on karite in Burkina

Excerpt from Proust and the Squid

Proust and the Squid

The Story and Science of the Reading Brain

By Maryanne Wolf

We were never born to read. Human beings invented reading only a few thousand years ago. And with this invention, we rearranged the very organization of our brain, which in turn expanded the ways we were able to think, which altered the intellectual evolution of our species. Reading is one of the single most remarkable inventions in history; the ability to record history is one of its consequences. Our ancestors' invention could come about only because of the human brain's extraordinary ability to make new connections among its existing structures, a process made possible by the brain's ability to be shaped by experience. This plasticity at the heart of the brain's design forms the basis for much of who we are, and who we might become.

This book tells the story of the reading brain, in the context of our unfolding intellectual evolution. That story is changing before our eyes and under the tips of our fingers. The next few decades will witness transformations in our ability to communicate, as we recruit new connections in the brain that will propel our intellectual development in new and different ways. Knowing what reading demands of our brain and knowing how it contributes to our capacity to think, to feel, to infer, and to understand other human beings is especially important today as we make the transition from a reading brain to an increasingly digital one. By coming to understand how reading evolved historically, how it is acquired by a child, and how it restructured its biological underpinnings in the brain, we can shed new light on our wondrous complexity as a literate species. This places in sharp relief what may happen next in the evolution of human intelligence, and the choices we might face in shaping that future.

Who controls African Literature

FAVL friend Chelby Daigle send us this editorial by Tolu Ogunlesi:

LAGOS: The literary world is once again shining a spotlight on Africa. There are new prizes: the South Africa-based PEN Studzinski Literary Award for short stories, and the Penguin Prize for African Writing, a pan-African prize covering both fiction and non-fiction genres. There’s a new book series, the “Penguin African Writers Series,” which will include not only new books from emerging writers, but also classics taken over from the defunct Heinemann African Writers Series. And next year South Africa will be featured as the “Market Focus country” at the 2010 London Book Fair and African writing will be showcased at the Gothenburg Book Fair.

The African ‘Greats’–Ngugi, Soyinka, Gordimer, Okot p’Bitek– have given way to a new roster of names — Chimamanda Adichie, Chris Abani, Helon Habila, Binyavanga Wainaina, Sefi Atta, Monica Arac de Nyeko, Chika Unigwe, Brian Chikwava — who have become the new faces of contemporary African writing.

This explosion of literary talent and publishing opportunities might be likened to a similar one that accompanied the heady post-independence days of the 1960s. But in spite of all the inspiring and exciting happenings of recent years, there still remain nagging questions regarding who exactly are the proper ‘gatekeepers’ of African literary tradition and production.

Read the fill article "Who Controls African Literature" here.

Why read when you can twitter?

A hilarious (to me) posting from ugandan insomniac on "what if" Museveni were twittering...

Had a rough nite. Mbwenu journalists are giving me grief 4 ordering the arrest of errant policemen in Nateete. They say it’s an attempt @ cheap popularity. As if!

Youtube soap opera from Burkina Faso

Great new song from Floby, addictive!

One of the student houses... just to give everyone an idea...

Grading Obama's speech

This from Leonard Wantchekon, guest blogging at Aid Watch:

Africans already got the idea: “Africa does not need strong men, it needs strong institutions”

A reaction to President Obama’s speech in Ghana by guest blogger Leonard Wantchekon, NYU Professor of Politics

Overall, I like the theme of the President Obama’s speech in Ghana. Africans must own their future by strengthening democratic institutions and the rule of law in their countries, and by becoming less reliant on assistance. I also like the idea of a real partnership between Africa and other developed countries based on trade. It is very much in line with what most of us would think. He said:

America can also do more to promote trade and investment. Wealthy nations must open our doors to goods and services from Africa in a meaningful way.

As Africans reach for this promise, America will be more responsible in extending our hand. By cutting costs that go to Western consultants and administration, we want to put more resources in the hands of those who need it, while training people to do more for themselves.

What I find a bit questionable is this:

Africa is not the crude caricature of a continent at perpetual war. But if we are honest, for far too many Africans, conflict is a part of life, as constant as the sun ... These conflicts are a millstone around Africa's neck.

My sense is that in saying this he has helped to perpetuate, perhaps unwittingly, the very caricature that he questions. Conflict is NOT as constant as the sun in Africa. While this may have been the reality of the 1970s and the 1980s, it is certainly no longer the case. He forgot to add that many of these conflicts were proxy wars between the US and the former Soviet Union (such as that in Angola), or were manufactured by France (such as that in Congo Brazzaville).

less expensive rountrips...

Almost everyone for the program has booked their flight, but one or two have not, and I just thought i would suggest that if you want to save about $800, Emirates has flights from SFO-Accra (in Ghana) for about $1800 (leaving August 31, returning Dec. 11). The downside is you would have to spend a night in Accra (about $100 for a nice hotel, which you want after a flight that long) and then take a very long (sometimes 24 hours) bus ride to Ouagadougou...costing about $50, and then also a Ghana visa (costing $100) so in the end it probably is about the same price (especially if you count the vlaue of your time sitting on a crowded bus for 24 hours!).

More travel tips

From WhiteAfrican....

15 Africa travel tips (not related to bandits, thugs and murder):

1. Take only one bag. “Suitcases are for suits, check-in for suckers” as my well-heeled friend Jan Chipchase points out. My choice is the Northface Heckler backpack (in black). It’s got a convenient sleeve for my computer, and plenty of room for the camera and other items – your mileage will vary.

2. Pack less. This is what makes #1 work. You’re going to be tempted to pack for every eventuality. Don’t. only to find out when you get there that you only need 1/3 of what you brought.

3. Carry a power bar. Usually you can find food wherever you are, however for the small cost in space having something handy that gives you some energy and that you can trust to not get a stomach bug over, this is my first choice.

4. For the techies… USB devices are great for transferring information, applications and pictures use one. However, remember that there are no condoms for USB devices and that every PC and internet cafe device should be treated as a pox-ridden carrier of digital STDs for your virgin device. Keep it faithful to only your computer (and vice versa).

5. Paperbacks trump hardbacks. There’s a lot of waiting around when traveling, which makes it nice to have a book handy.

6. On mobile phones. You have two choices on your phone. a) buy a cheap one when you get there ($20-40) and get a local SIM card. b) get an unlocked phone before you leave and just buy a SIM card when you hit the ground. For multi-country travel I suggest going with “b”, which is what I do. If you lose a lot of phones, or are terrified of being robbed, go with “a”.

7. Bargain for everything. Have a great conversation with the first seller of whatever service or product you’re interested in. Never buy from that person. Instead, figure out exactly where the line is and then haggle harder with the next vendor, tout or merchant. (How can I state this delicately…? If you’re paying 25% of the asking price, you’re still being ripped off.)

8. On Cameras. A lot could be written about this, but suffice it to say that smaller is better unless you really like to take good pictures. I would suggest something that is waterproof. My personal favorite is the Sanyo Xacti – I love this thing. However, I could equally suggest getting something that runs off just a couple AA batteries. (Pros and Prosumers who, like me, carry a larger body DSLR ignore this one. You have your own rules to live by).

9. Spread your money out. Never carry all your money in one place. This isn’t just for security reasons, its for bargaining as well. I suggest carrying varying amounts of cash in 3 different spots and knowing what the amounts are so that you never pull out too much.

10. Eat local. This is especially true if you’re going on the cheap, don’t be afraid to eat the cooked foods at the road-side kiosks. You’ll see me regularly eating beans and chapatis on the streets of Nairobi for lunch. At $.50 I’m getting a good full meal and I can do it in a hurry if need be. If that’s too adventurous for you, you can choose other local spots, just don’t fall into the trap of thinking that you have to eat at the “westernized” establishments.

11. Mosquitos are made in hell and must be killed. I could write a whole post on the epic battles I’ve had with these satanic insects. Buy a can of Doom (insect spray), get insect repellent, sit on the smoky side of the fire, use a mosquito net – whatever it takes. My favorite way to kill them is a wadded up t-shirt as it has a wide area of impact – if you’re good you can smash them up against the wall/ceiling from a good distance away.

12. Remember your power adapter. Know what the outlets are going to be like where you’re going so you can recharge your computer and/or camera. Not knowing where you’re going, I would suggest this one – though a little big, it does fit almost everywhere you’re likely to travel.

13. Watches are overrated. It’s just one more thing to carry, use your cell phone for the time. Time doesn’t matter as much anyway to be honest… I haven’t worn one for years, but it could be I’m missing something here.

14. Drink a lot. I’m not going to get into it on whether you drink bottled water, sodas, beer or tap water – just make sure you’re drinking. You’ll end up sweating more, walking more and not realizing just how dehydrated you are until you notice that you haven’t gone to the restroom all day.

15. Toss out your expectations, embrace the differences. It’s not all going to fit the “standard” (as I reminded myself when I nearly bashed my skull in) that you think it should be. Just roll with it and keep a light-approach to life. When something goes wrong, which it will, remember that a smile, a shake of your head and a laugh will take you a lot further than the angry, frustrated and shouting “white person in Africa act” will.

The bonus tip is this: make friends locally and listen to them. They know the area and can point you towards people and places that you’ll get a lot out of. They also know most of the dangerous and dark corners of the region that you should stay away from, which Kristof talks of. People, at the end of the day, are your greatest assets when traveling, not your gear, knowledge or prior experience in the region.

Have tips of your own to add?

The best ones in the comments will be added here (so leave a link so I can attribute it to you).

From Ethan Zuckerman:

• Bring a hat. One you don’t mind wearing all the time, one you can wash in the sink or a bucket every night, one that keeps the sun from frying your brain. Or buy one. But this is a “don’t leave home without it” item for me.
• Undershirts keep you cooler. I rarely wear one in the States, but they’re essential equipment in tropical climes, and one of the few ways to remain presentable if you’ve got to do a business meeting.
• And an urban Africa tip – a cheap flashlight/torch is your friend when the power goes out and you’re staggering home from the bar at 2am. We refer to them in Ghana as “sewer avoidance systems” – trust me, fall into one open sewer and you’ll carry a torch with you for the rest of your life.

Sorcery and social exclusion / banishment of women in Burkina Faso

When we read about Ted Miguel's study of witch-killing in Tanzania, remember this article from lefaso.net...

L’Afrique a ses mythes et ses mystères. La pratique supposée ou vraie de la sorcellerie donne lieu à des pendaisons multiples dans la région du Nord du Burkina Faso. Dans la province du Passoré, le phénomène est entier. Le silence des uns rend atroce la souffrance des autres.

Au Burkina Faso, la sorcellerie a arbitrairement un visage féminin bien observable au centre “ Delwendé ” de Tanghin au secteur n°23 de Ouagadougou où une centaine de pauvres vieilles femmes rejetées à tort par la société y survivent, grâce aux religieuses catholiques dans une sorte de “ prison de la liberté ”. Bien que cette injustice soit l’apanage du Plateau mossi, elle est plus manifeste et pernicieuse dans la région Nord du pays. Le phénomène des mangeuses d’âmes crée une psychose dans la province du Passoré en général et dans son chef-lieu Yako en particulier. Tel un serpent de mer et sur fond de mysticisme, la sorcellerie réelle ou imaginaire a un impact considérable sur le vécu des populations de cette partie du Burkina Faso. Pendaisons et exclusions sociales, sont autant de graves conséquences qu’elle engendre. Les accusées de mangeuses d’âmes sont publiquement violentées et subissent les sévices les plus inhumains. Lynchage, déchéance et bannissement de l’accusé conduisent à une mort sociale certaine de l’individu transformé en un zombi, voire un “animal” condamné à l’errance et à la mort.

“Lorsqu’on m’a accusée de sorcellerie et procédé à mon exclusion, j’ai vécu huit jours dans la brousse, dans la faim et la soif. Ma seule compagnie était les chants des oiseaux. N’ayant plus envie de vivre, j’ai tenté de mettre fin à ma vie en consommant les raticides. J’ai vomi durant trois jours ”, témoigne Sibidou Bassyam, la cinquantaine dépassée. Chassées de chez elles, les femmes accusées de sorcellerie sont interdites de séjour aussi bien dans leurs foyers que dans leurs familles. Considérées comme des pestiférées, il leur est réfusé la moindre assistance et le moindre geste de solidarité. “N’eut été l’existence de nos centres d’accueil, ces personnes seraient vouées à une mort certaine”, a confié la sœur Rita Tankoano, responsable du centre accueillant les femmes accusées de sorcellerie à Tema Bokin, une commune rurale du Passoré.

Read more...